New Door and Facade in Front of Garage
Project 3: Install New Door and Façade in Front of Garage
Materials & Tools:
Materials & Tools:
- New or Used Exterior Entrance Door
- 2x4x8’s Top Choice Fir
- 2x4x10’s Top Choice Fir
- 2x4x10’s Pressure Treated
- ¾˝x4x8 Exterior Grade Plywood or OSB
- 15 lb. Felt Paper
- Latex/Acrylic Caulk
- Cedar Bevel Siding
- 1x4 Cedar
- 2˝ Ring Shank Stainless Steele Nails
- Circular Saw, Miter Saw & Reciprocating Saw
- Framing Hammers & Pry Bars
- Pneumatic Framing Gun W/ 3” Framing Nails
- Hammer Drill W/ Concrete Drill Bit & 3˝ Concrete Screws
- Cordless Drill W/ 3˝ wood Screws
- Hammer Stapler W/ ⅜˝ Staples
- 2ˊ & 4ˊ Levels
- Caulk Gun
- Chalk Line
Note: The quantities of the materials listed above will vary depending on the size of the job.
Step by Step
Remove Old Garage Door and Existing Siding...
- Remove the old garage door and all of its hardware. Get some friends to help with this step.
- Remove the ole door jamb to expose the 2x4 framing. Do this all the way around the opening.
- Remove all of the existing siding on the front of the garage right down to the sheathing. Pull any nails and staples from the existing exterior sheathing.
Build The New Wall In The Old Garage Door Opening...
- Chalk a line on the floor inside the opening from one side to the other. Start the chalk line on one side, at the corner of the exposed bottom plate, and run it to the corresponding corner of the exposed bottom plate on the other side. This Line indicates the position of your new bottom plate.
- Cut the pressure treated 2x4 to fit into this opening. Place the new bottom plate into the opening against the chalk line. Mark your stud locations on the bottom plate. Make sure you know the Rough Opening size of your new door so you can mark the stud locations accordingly.
- With the stud locations marked you can attach the bottom plate to the floor. Run a thick bead of construction adhesive under the bottom plate and secure it to the floor using the hammer drill & 3˝ concrete screws. Note: Do not use construction adhesive or screws to attach the Rough Opening section (where the door will go) of the bottom plate. This section will be cut out after the studs are in place.
- Cut and nail the new 2x4 studs in place. Start by toe nailing the bottom of each stud onto the marked locations of the bottom plate. Toe nail the other end of each stud into the existing header, plumbing each one as you go.
- Nail in the new door header and any cripplers you may need. Nail an additional 2x4 stud to the studs on each side of your rough opening. Doubling these studs gives the opening more strength.
- Cut and attach the new exterior grade plywood or OSB to the outside of the new wall frame. Do not cover the rough opening, work around it keeping the edge of the sheathing flush with the inside edge of the opening. Use the framing gun W/ 2½˝ ring shank galvanized nails to attach the sheathing. Make sure to nail thru the new sheathing into the studs. Run your nails every 8˝ – 10˝ up the stud line.
Attach the Water Proof Felt Paper...
- Start at the bottom of the wall and work your way up attaching the 15 lb. felt paper with a hammer stapler & ⅜˝ staples. The second and subsequent layers of felt paper should overlap the lower one by at least 4˝.
- You can attach this membrane right over the door opening, then cut it out using a utility knife later.
- Use extra strips of felt paper to line the outer corner of the door opening all the way around.
- Using the reciprocating saw, Cut out the rough opening section of the bottom plate. Run two generous beads of butyl or acrylic (door & window) caulk along the length of the area where the section of bottom plate used to be.
- Place the door into the opening. Put in the bottom first with the top leaning out towards you, and then tilt it into place.
- Center the door in the opening and shim it in place. Make sure to place shims at every hinge point on both sides of the door frame. You will be permanently attaching the door frame to the rough opening studs at these points later.
- Adjust the shims and frame assembly until the door jambs are plumb in both directions.
- After making these adjustments, temporarily nail the door in place using some 16d finishing nails. Do not drive the nails in all the way.
- Open and close the door to test its operation. It should open and close smoothly.
- Permanently secure the door frame. Pre-drill and drive in 3˝ wood screws at all the hinge point locations. Make sure there are shims in each location you drive a screw. Continue all the way around the door jamb until the frame is secure. Note: If you are installing a double hung, antique door like the one for this project, you will need to use ¼˝ or ⅜˝ x 5˝ lag screws in place of the 3˝ wood screws. The door frame is typically made from 2˝ – 3˝ thick hardwood.
Attach the Trim & Siding...
- Using the 18 gauge nail gun W/ 2˝ gal. nails, attach all of the 1x4 cedar trim around the door and corners of the exterior wall. The cedar bevel siding will butt up to this trim, so make sure its level and plumb.
- Run a bead of clear caulk around the around the door, where the 1x4 trim meets the door frame.
- Start the siding with the bottom course using a furring strip to support the lower edge. Each succeeding course should overlap the upper edge of the previous one by 1˝. Use a miter saw W/ a finish carbide blade to cut the siding to fit snugly between the trim pieces.
- Face nail the siding just above the overlap into the studs of the wall using a hammer & 2˝ stainless steele, ring shank nails. Use a scrap piece of siding as a spacer to keep the courses running straight and level.
- Butt joints between boards should be staggered and made at stud locations.
- Insulate and drywall the inside of the new wall. Make sure to insulate around the edges of the door frame with loosely packed fiberglass insulation or low-expansion foam.
- Mud, sand and paint the drywall, then paint and install all the interior trim.
- Install a weather-strip at the base of the door.